Paperwork for Buying a House Without a Realtor

One of the first questions self-represented buyers ask is some version of: “How do I know what paperwork I need?”

The honest answer is that buying a home without an agent requires the same documents as buying with one — minus the buyer’s agreement. Your agent’s primary paperwork function was collecting forms you can get yourself and walking you through documents your lender and title company generate automatically.

Here’s everything you need, organized by phase.

What You Don’t Need (And Why It Matters)

Before the checklist: one document you will not be signing is a buyer’s agreement. That’s the contract that locks you into paying a buyer’s agent commission — typically 2-3% of the purchase price — before you’ve toured a single home.

Without that document, there’s no commission attached to your offer. The seller nets more on the same price. That structural advantage is covered in detail in our post on why your offer is stronger without a buyer’s agent, but the short version is: skipping the buyer’s agreement isn’t just about saving money. It makes your offer more competitive.

Phase 1: Before You Start Shopping

Pre-Approval Letter

This is non-negotiable. No serious seller will look at an offer without a pre-approval letter from a lender. It confirms that you’ve been reviewed for a mortgage, the loan amount you’re approved for, and that your financing is real.

Get this before you tour any homes. It also tells you your actual budget — which is often different from what you thought you could afford. BAIRE partners with NFM Lending, licensed in 49 states, if you need pre-qualification as part of the process.

What to have ready for the lender: Two years of tax returns, two months of pay stubs, two months of bank statements, government-issued ID, and your Social Security number for the credit pull.

Proof of Funds

A bank statement or account screenshot showing you have the earnest money available, plus any down payment funds if they’re in a different account. In competitive markets, some sellers ask to see proof of funds alongside the pre-approval letter before accepting an offer.

Budget Worksheet

Not a form you submit — a document for yourself. Before you shop, calculate your true monthly housing costs: principal and interest, property taxes (look up the tax rate for your target area), homeowner’s insurance (~$150-200/month on a typical home), and HOA fees if applicable. The payment your lender quotes you is often just principal and interest. The real number is higher.

Phase 2: Making an Offer

State Purchase Agreement Form

The standard residential purchase contract for your state. Free download from your state’s real estate commission website. This is the same form agents use. It covers purchase price, earnest money, closing date, contingencies, and seller disclosures.

For a complete guide to filling out every field, see our post on how to write a home offer without an agent.

Earnest Money Payment

A personal check, cashier’s check, or wire transfer for 1-3% of the purchase price. Submitted within the deadline specified in the contract after acceptance — typically 1-3 business days. Goes into an escrow account held by the title company or escrow officer until closing, then applied toward your down payment or closing costs.

Pre-Approval Letter Copy

Include a copy with your offer. The listing agent will show it to the seller as evidence your financing is solid. Make sure it’s dated within the last 30-60 days.

Phase 3: Under Contract

Home Inspection Report

Your inspector produces this after examining the property — typically within 7-10 days of offer acceptance, depending on your contract timeline. You hire the inspector (not the listing agent, not the seller). Cost: $300-600 for most homes.

Read the full report, not just the summary. Inspectors flag everything from minor maintenance items to structural concerns. Understand which findings are negotiating leverage and which are deal-killers before you decide how to respond.

Repair Request or As-Is Acceptance

If the inspection reveals issues, you submit a written repair request or ask for a price reduction or closing cost credit. If you accept the property as-is after inspection, you sign a document acknowledging the inspection results and confirming you’re proceeding.

Homeowner’s Insurance Binder

Your lender will require proof of homeowner’s insurance before they fund the loan. Shop for insurance early — you can bind coverage before closing and the binder (a one-page confirmation of coverage) goes to the title company. In some high-risk areas (hurricane zones, flood plains), insurance can be harder to obtain and should be sorted out well before closing day.

HOA Documents

If the property is in an HOA, the seller is typically required to provide governing documents: CC&Rs, bylaws, rules, and a recent meeting minutes package. Review these carefully. HOA restrictions can affect what you can do with the property, and HOA finances affect whether you’re buying into a well-run community or one that’s heading for a special assessment.

Appraisal Report

Your lender orders this, not you. An appraiser evaluates the property and determines its fair market value. If the appraisal comes in below your offer price, you’ll need to renegotiate, make up the gap in cash, or exercise your appraisal contingency and exit the contract. You receive a copy of the appraisal report before closing.

Phase 4: Closing

Closing Disclosure

A five-page document from your lender showing the final terms of your loan and every cost associated with the transaction — interest rate, monthly payment, closing costs, prepaid items, and cash required at closing. Federal law requires your lender to send this at least three business days before closing.

Don’t skim it. Compare every line against the Loan Estimate you received when you applied. If anything has changed significantly — and surprises do happen — you have three days to ask questions and push back before you’re at the closing table.

Cashier’s Check or Wire Transfer

Your down payment and remaining closing costs, minus the earnest money already in escrow. The exact amount comes from the Closing Disclosure. Most title companies require a cashier’s check or wire transfer — not a personal check — for the remaining funds. Confirm the amount and the wiring instructions with the title company the day before.

Government-Issued ID

Bring two forms. Your driver’s license plus a passport or one other form of ID. The notary at closing will verify your identity before you sign anything.

Final Walkthrough Checklist

Not a document you receive — something you do. The final walkthrough happens 24 hours before closing. Verify the property is in the same condition as when you made your offer, any agreed-upon repairs were completed, appliances are working, and the sellers have cleared out their belongings. If something is wrong, you have the right to delay closing until it’s resolved.

What You Don’t Need to Bring

A few things buyers sometimes worry about that aren’t actually your responsibility to produce:

• Title search: The title company runs this and delivers the results to you. You don’t initiate it.
• Title commitment: The title company provides this before closing, confirming they’ll issue title insurance.
• Seller’s disclosure: The seller fills this out, not you. It’s required in most states and discloses known defects. Read it carefully.
• Deed: The title company or attorney prepares the deed. It’s signed by the seller at closing and recorded by the title company after.

The process has more moving parts than most first-time buyers expect — but the majority of the documents come to you, rather than requiring you to find and produce them. BAIRE walks you through what each document means, what to look for, and when it shows up. For the complete sequence from first search to closing day, the full guide to buying without a realtor covers every phase.