How to Write a Home Offer Without a Realtor

The purchase offer is the moment most buyers picture when they imagine needing an agent. You’ve found the house. Now what? There’s paperwork, legal language, contingencies, deadlines. It sounds like territory that requires professional credentials.

It doesn’t.

Here’s something the industry doesn’t advertise: every state publishes a standard residential purchase agreement — a fill-in-the-blank form designed to be completed by people who aren’t attorneys. It’s the same form your agent would use. It’s free. And once you understand what each field means, filling it out is straightforward work.

Step 1: Get the Form

Search “[your state] real estate commission purchase agreement.” Your state’s real estate commission website will have the standard residential purchase contract available as a free PDF download. A few common ones:

• Texas: TREC One to Four Family Residential Contract (Resale) — trec.texas.gov
• Arizona: AAR Residential Resale Real Estate Purchase Contract — aaronline.com
• California: CAR Residential Purchase Agreement — car.org (free to members; find through your county)
• Colorado: CBS2-8-23 Contract to Buy and Sell Real Estate — dre.colorado.gov
• Florida: FR/BAR As-Is Residential Contract for Sale and Purchase — floridarealtors.org

If your state’s form isn’t immediately obvious, search the state real estate commission website directly. Every state has one. Some are longer than others, but they all cover the same core fields.

You can also ask the listing agent if they can provide the form — they use it constantly and will often send it over without hesitation.

Step 2: Fill in the Core Fields

The fields on a standard purchase agreement break into four categories. Here’s what to put in each.

Purchase Price

This is the number you’re offering. Base it on comparable sales — recent closed transactions for similar homes in the same area. Look at price per square foot, condition, updates, and days on market. A home that’s been sitting for sixty days has different negotiating dynamics than one that just listed.

BAIRE’s comp analysis pulls this data automatically when you paste a listing link. But you can also find comps through Zillow’s “Recently Sold” filter, Redfin’s market data, or by asking the listing agent directly what comparable homes have sold for recently.

Earnest Money

Earnest money is a good-faith deposit that shows the seller you’re serious. It goes into escrow after your offer is accepted and is applied toward your down payment or closing costs at closing.

Standard range: 1-3% of the purchase price. On a $400,000 home, that’s $4,000 to $12,000. In competitive markets, the higher end signals commitment. In a slower market, 1% is often sufficient. You’ll need a personal check, cashier’s check, or wire transfer ready within a few days of acceptance — the contract will specify the deadline.

Closing Date

Thirty to forty-five days from offer acceptance is the standard range. If you’re getting a conventional mortgage, your lender will need 30-45 days to process the loan. Ask your lender upfront what their realistic timeline is — then add a few days of buffer.

If you know the seller has a specific timeline preference — they’re building a new home and need extra time, or they’ve already bought and want to close fast — matching their timeline is a meaningful concession that costs you nothing.

Contingencies

Contingencies are conditions that must be satisfied for the sale to close. If they’re not met, you can exit the contract and typically recover your earnest money. The three standard contingencies:

In highly competitive markets, sellers sometimes ask buyers to waive contingencies. Understand exactly what you’re giving up before you agree. Waiving inspection on a home you haven’t thoroughly evaluated is a significant risk. Waiving appraisal when you’re offering above comparable sales means you may owe cash at closing if the bank disagrees with your price.

Step 3: Fill in the Buyer-Agent Commission Field

Post-NAR settlement, purchase agreements include a field for buyer-agent compensation. If you’re representing yourself, the answer is straightforward: enter $0, leave it blank, or write N/A.

There is no buyer’s agent. There is no commission to pay. That’s part of why your offer is structurally stronger — the seller nets more on the same price.

If the seller has pre-emptively offered buyer-agent compensation in the listing terms, you can ask to have that amount applied as a closing cost credit instead. This effectively reduces your out-of-pocket costs at closing without changing the purchase price. Whether the seller agrees to this depends on the specific situation and how much leverage you have.

Step 4: Assemble the Submission Package

Your offer package has three components:

• The completed purchase agreement. Signed (most states allow electronic signature) and fully filled out.
• Pre-approval letter from your lender. This is non-negotiable. Without it, no serious seller will consider your offer. The letter should be dated within the last 30-60 days and show the loan amount you’re approved for.
• Proof of earnest money funds. A bank statement or screenshot showing you have the earnest money available. This is becoming more common in competitive markets and signals you’re financially ready.

Some buyers include a fourth element: a short cover letter. A few sentences explaining who you are and why you want the home. This is personal and optional — and in some states, restricted for fair housing reasons. If you include one, keep it brief and factual. Don’t describe your family, your kids, or anything that could be used as a basis for discrimination. Many listing agents won’t even pass personal letters to sellers in states where they’re restricted.

Step 5: Submit to the Listing Agent

The listing agent’s contact information is on every listing. Email them directly:

“Hi [Agent name], I’m a self-represented buyer and I’d like to submit an offer on [property address]. Attached is my signed purchase agreement, pre-approval letter, and proof of earnest money funds. Please let me know if you need anything else to present this to your client.”

That’s it. The listing agent is obligated to present your offer to the seller. They may try to schedule a call first, or ask clarifying questions. That’s normal. Answer what you’re comfortable with and keep the focus on getting your offer in front of the seller.

What Comes Next

Once submitted, you’ll typically hear back within 24-72 hours. Three outcomes are possible.

Acceptance. The seller signs and returns the agreement. You’re under contract. Wire the earnest money within the deadline specified in the contract and schedule your inspection.

Counter-offer. The seller modifies your terms — usually price, closing date, or contingency timelines — and sends it back. You can accept the counter, reject it, or send back your own counter. Most deals involve at least one round of back-and-forth.

Rejection. The seller declines entirely. This happens less often than buyers expect — most sellers counter rather than reject outright, because a counter keeps the negotiation alive. If you do get rejected, you can often submit a revised offer if you adjust the terms.

For a complete picture of every document involved from start to closing, the paperwork checklist covers the full sequence. And for the entire process from first search to closing day, the complete guide to buying without a realtor is the place to start.