First-Time Buyers14 min read

A First-Time Buyer’s Roadmap: From Pre-Approval to Closing Day

The complete play-by-play for first-time home buyers. Every stage, every action, every decision — from getting your finances straight to getting the keys.

By Patrick Londa

You've done the mental work. You understand the process at a high level, you know what to focus on, and you've decided you're capable of handling this yourself—or at least you want to see what that would look like before deciding.

This is the play-by-play. Every stage of a home purchase, in order, with the specific actions, conversations, and decisions you'll face at each one. Written for someone doing this for the first time, without a buyer's agent, and without sugarcoating.

Let's start at the beginning.

Stage 1: Get Your Money Straight

Before anything else, you need a clear picture of your financial situation. Not a rough guess. A real picture.

Check your credit score. If it's below 620, most conventional lenders won't work with you (FHA loans go lower, but the terms are less favorable). If it's between 620 and 740, you'll qualify but may not get the best rates. Above 740, you're in good shape.

Calculate your down payment. Conventional loans typically require 5–20% down. FHA loans allow as little as 3.5%. VA loans (if you qualify) require zero down. Know your number before you talk to a lender, so the conversation is productive.

Add up your monthly debts. Car payments, student loans, credit card minimums, anything recurring. Lenders use your debt-to-income ratio (total monthly debts divided by gross monthly income) to determine how much they'll lend you. Most want this below 43%, and the lower, the better.

Then call lenders. At least three. Get pre-approved by the one with the best combination of rate, fees, and responsiveness. That pre-approval letter is your ticket into the market.

Stage 2: Define Your Search

This is where most first-time buyers get stuck—not because they can't find listings, but because they haven't defined what they're looking for tightly enough.

Start with your non-negotiables. Geographic area (commute matters more than you think—drive the route during rush hour before committing to a neighborhood). Minimum bedroom and bathroom count. Any hard requirements like a garage, a yard, or single-story layout.

Then set your price ceiling. Not the maximum your lender approved—the maximum you're comfortable spending. These are not the same number, and confusing them is how first-time buyers end up house-poor. A good rule of thumb: your total housing cost (mortgage, taxes, insurance) shouldn't exceed 28–30% of your gross monthly income. Some people stretch to 33%. Going beyond that gets uncomfortable fast.

Set up alerts on Zillow, Redfin, and your local MLS portal. Save searches with your criteria. When something hits the market that matches, you'll know within hours.

Stage 3: See Homes and Evaluate Them

When you find a listing worth seeing, contact the listing agent. Their information is on the listing. Send an email or call: "Hi, I'm a pre-approved first-time buyer and I'm interested in seeing the property at [address]. I'm representing myself. Is there a time this week that works?"

Expect a normal, professional response. Listing agents work with unrepresented buyers routinely. They may ask you to sign a form acknowledging that they represent the seller, not you. That's standard. Sign it and move on—just remember that anything the listing agent says is in service of their client's interests, not yours.

When you tour the home, look past the staging. Check the things that matter and that the photos didn't show you. Open closet doors. Run faucets. Look at the electrical panel (is it modern or outdated?). Check the basement or crawlspace for signs of water. Look at the roof from the outside—missing shingles, sagging areas. Notice the grading around the foundation; water should flow away from the house, not toward it.

After the showing, pull comparable sales. Three to five recently sold homes in the area with similar size, condition, and features. Note what they sold for and how long they were on the market. This gives you a pricing baseline that's grounded in data rather than gut feeling.

Stage 4: Make an Offer

You've found a home. Your comps support the price range. You're ready to move.

Get the purchase agreement form for your state. Your state's real estate commission website usually has it, or you can get it from a title company or real estate attorney.

Fill in the key fields. Your offer price, informed by comps. Earnest money amount—typically 1–3% of the purchase price. Your contingencies: inspection, financing, and appraisal. Your target closing date, usually 30 to 45 days out. Any special terms—seller concessions toward closing costs, specific personal property included, a rent-back period if the seller needs time to move.

Attach your pre-approval letter. Email the complete package to the listing agent. Include a short, professional note: "Please find my offer for [address]. I'm pre-approved with [lender] for conventional financing and targeting a [X]-day close. Happy to discuss any questions."

Then wait. The seller will typically respond within 24 to 72 hours with an acceptance, a rejection, or a counter-offer.

Stage 5: Navigate the Counter-Offer

Counter-offers are the norm, not the exception. The seller might come back higher on price, tighter on closing date, or with pushback on one of your contingency terms. None of this is adversarial. It's just two parties finding common ground.

Before you ever submitted your offer, you should have set a walkaway number—the absolute maximum price you're willing to pay, and the terms you won't budge on. Write it down. When the counter comes in, compare it to your limits. If it's within range, continue the conversation. If it's not, you have your answer.

Respond to counter-offers in writing, always. Don't negotiate verbally unless you follow up with written confirmation immediately. You need a paper trail for everything.

Something first-time buyers often don't realize: being unrepresented gives you a structural advantage in negotiation. When there's no buyer-agent commission for the seller to pay, the seller's costs are lower. Your offer at $390,000 with no commission may net the seller more than a competing offer at $400,000 with a 2.5% buyer-agent commission attached. Smart listing agents will do this math and present your offer favorably.

Stage 6: Inspection and Due Diligence

You're under contract. The clock is ticking on your contingency periods.

Hire a licensed home inspector immediately. Don't wait. Your inspection window is typically 7 to 14 days from the contract date, depending on your state and your agreement. Book the inspection within the first two or three days.

Attend the inspection if you can. Walk through with the inspector. Ask questions. A good inspector will explain what they're seeing and what it means. You'll learn more about the house in three hours than in a dozen showings.

When the report comes back, apply the filter: structural, safety, and high-cost items are the priority. Cosmetic issues are not negotiation items—they're your to-do list after you move in.

If there are significant findings, send a repair request or credit request to the listing agent. Be specific and proportional. "The inspector identified the roof as nearing end of life with an estimated replacement cost of $8,000. We're requesting a $6,000 credit at closing to address this." That's a professional request backed by evidence. It's how experienced buyers handle inspections, and there's no reason you can't do exactly the same thing.

Stage 7: Appraisal and Title

Your lender orders the appraisal. You don't choose the appraiser. The fee (usually $400–$700) is part of your closing costs. The appraiser visits the property, reviews comps, and determines the market value.

If the appraisal comes in at or above your offer price, you're clear. If it comes in below, you have three options: renegotiate the price to match the appraisal, cover the gap out of pocket, or exercise your appraisal contingency and walk away.

Simultaneously, the title company runs a title search to confirm the seller has clear ownership. They'll also issue a title insurance policy that protects you if any ownership issues surface later. This is handled by the title company—you don't need to manage it beyond choosing a title company (your lender often has recommendations, or you can shop around).

Stage 8: Final Walkthrough and Closing

A day or two before closing, you do a final walkthrough. This isn't another inspection. It's a check to confirm the home is in the condition you agreed to: repairs have been made, nothing new has gone wrong, and the seller has vacated (or is on schedule to).

At least three business days before closing, your lender sends you the Closing Disclosure—a detailed breakdown of every cost: loan terms, rate, monthly payment, closing costs, prepaid taxes, insurance. Compare it to the Loan Estimate you got when you applied. If the numbers shifted significantly, call your lender and ask why.

At closing, you'll sign the documents—mortgage note, deed of trust, settlement statements, various disclosures. A title company representative or real estate attorney (depending on your state) will walk you through each document. Bring a cashier's check or wire the funds for your down payment and closing costs. The deed gets recorded. You get the keys.

That's it. You're a homeowner.

What Makes This Manageable

Everything I've described is sequential. Step follows step. Each one has a defined action, a defined timeline, and a defined outcome. There are no curveballs that come from nowhere—only decisions that feel unfamiliar because you haven't made them before.

What separates a first-time buyer who struggles from one who doesn't isn't talent or insider knowledge. It's having a clear framework to follow. A system that tells you what to do, when to do it, and what to watch out for at each stage.

That's why tools like BAIRE exist. BAIRE is a guided platform for self-represented buyers that provides step-by-step support through every phase of the purchase—from pre-qualification through closing. It's not a brokerage. It's not an agent substitute. It's the map that most first-time buyers are missing: built from the collective knowledge of thousands of real estate professionals, delivered in plain language, and available whenever you need it.

Whether you use a platform like that or build your own system from scratch, the principle holds: have a structure, follow the structure, and don't improvise when there's money on the line.


Next up: You know the process. You've got the roadmap. The last question is what this actually feels like in practice—and what happens when a first-time buyer runs through it with real support behind them. That's what we cover in What It Looks Like When a First-Time Buyer Purchases a Home Without an Agent.

Frequently Asked Questions

What credit score do I need to buy a home?

For conventional loans, most lenders require a minimum of 620. Between 620 and 740, you’ll qualify but may not get the best rates. Above 740, you’re in good shape. FHA loans go lower (as low as 580 with 3.5% down), but the terms are less favorable.

How much down payment do I need for my first home?

Conventional loans typically require 5–20% down. FHA loans allow as little as 3.5%. VA loans (if you qualify) require zero down. Know your number before talking to a lender so the conversation is productive.

How do I contact a listing agent as an unrepresented buyer?

Call or email: “Hi, I’m a pre-approved first-time buyer interested in seeing the property at [address]. I’m representing myself. Is there a time this week that works?” Listing agents work with unrepresented buyers routinely and will respond professionally.

Does being unrepresented give me a negotiation advantage?

Yes. When there’s no buyer-agent commission for the seller to pay, the seller’s costs are lower. Your offer at $390,000 with no commission may net the seller more than a competing offer at $400,000 with a 2.5% buyer-agent commission attached.

What happens if the appraisal comes in below my offer price?

You have three options: renegotiate the price to match the appraisal, cover the gap out of pocket, or exercise your appraisal contingency and walk away. The appraisal protects you from overpaying.

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